General
Before performing any maintenance on your Frymaster fryer, disconnect the fryer from the electrical
power supply.
When electrical wires are disconnected, it is recommended that they be marked in such a way as to
facilitate re-assembly.
Replacing a Controller
1.
Disconnect the
fryer from
the electrical
power supply.
2.
The controller bezel is held in place by tabs at the top and bottom.
Slide the metal bezel up to disengage the lower tabs. Then
slide the bezel
down to disengage the upper tabs.
3.
Remove the two screws from the upper corners of the control panel. The control panel is hinged
at the bottom and swings open from
the top.
4. Unplug the wiring harness from the connector on the back of the controller and disconnect the grounding wire
from terminal adjacent to the connector. Remove
the control panel assembly by lifting
it from the hinged slots in the control
panel
frame.
5. Remove the controller from the control panel assembly and install the replacement controller.
Reinstall the
control panel
assembly by reversing steps
1 and 2.
Replacing
Component Box Components
1.
Disconnect the
fryer from
the electrical
power supply.
2. The controller bezel is held in place by tabs at the top and bottom.
Slide the metal bezel up to disengage the lower tabs. Then
slide the bezel
down to disengage the upper tabs.
3.
Remove the two screws from the upper corners of the control panel and allow the control panel
to swing down.
4. Unplug the wiring harness from the 15-pin connector on the interface board and disconnect the
grounding wire from terminal adjacent to the 15-pin connector on
the back of the controller.
Remove the control panel
assembly by lifting it
from the hinge slots in the control panel frame.
5. Disconnect the wiring from the component to be replaced, being sure to make a note of where each
wire
was connected.
6.
Dismount the component to be replaced and install the new component, being sure that any
required spacers, insulation,
washers, etc.
are in place.
NOTE: If more room to work is required, the control panel frame assembly may be removed by removing the hex head screws that secure it to the fryer cabinet (see illustration below). If this option is chosen, all control panel assemblies must be removed per steps 1 and 2 above. The cover plate on the lower front of the component box may also be removed if desired.
7.
Reconnect the wiring disconnected in Step 3, referring to your notes and the wiring diagrams on
the fryer door to ensure that the
connections are
properly made.
Also, verify that no other wiring was
disconnected accidentally
during the replacement
process.
8. Reverse steps 1 through 4 to complete the replacement and
return the fryer to service.
Replacing a High-Limit Thermostat
1.
Remove the filter pan and lid from the unit. Drain the frypots
into a Shortening Disposal Unit
(SDU) or other appropriate metal container.
3. Remove the four screws from both the left and right sides of the lower back panel.
4. Locate the high-limit that is being replaced and follow the two-black wires to the 12-pin
connector C-6. Note where the leads are connected prior to removing them from the connector.
Unplug the 12-pin connector C-6 and using a pin-pusher push the pins of the high-limit out of the
5. Using a wrench, carefully unscrew the high-limit thermostat to be replaced.
6. Apply Loctite™ PST 567 or equivalent sealant to the threads of the replacement and screw it
securely into the frypot.
7 Insert the leads into the 12-pin connector C-6 (see illustration below).
For full-vat units or the
left half of a dual-vat unit (as viewed from the rear of the fryer) the leads go into positions 1 and
2 of the connector. For the right half of a dual-vat unit (as viewed from the rear of the fryer), the
leads go into positions 7 and 8. In either case, polarity does not matter.
8. Reconnect the 12-pin connecting plug C-6. Use wire ties to secure any loose wires.
9. Reinstall the back panels reposition the fryer under the exhaust hood, and reconnect it to the electrical power supply to return the fryer to service.
Replacing a Temperature Probe
1. Remove the filter pan and lid from the unit. Drain the frypots into a Shortening Disposal Unit
(SDU) or other appropriate metal container.
2.
Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply and reposition it to gain access to the rear of the fryer.
3. Remove the four screws from both sides of the lower back panel. Then remove the two screws
on both the left and right sides of the back of the tilt housing. Lift the tilt housing
straight up to
remove from the fryer.
4.
Locate the red and white wires of the temperature probe to be replaced.
Note
where the leads are connected prior to removing them from the connector.
Unplug the 12-pin connector C-6 and using
a pin-pusher push
the
pins of the temperature probe out of
the connector.
5. Raise the element and remove the securing probe bracket and metal tie wraps that secure the probe to the
element (see illustration
below).
6.
Gently pull on the temperature probe and grommet, pulling
the wires up the rear of the fryer and through the element tube
assembly.
7. Insert the replacement temperature probe (wires first) into the tube assembly ensuring that the
grommet is in place. Secure the probe to the elements using
the bracket which was removed in
Step
5 and the metal tie
wraps which were included
in the replacement kit.
8.
Route the probe wires out of the tube assembly following the element wires down the back of the
fryer
through the
Heyco bushings to the 12-pin connector
C-6.
Secure
the wires to the sheathing with wire ties.
9. Insert the temperature probe leads into the 12-pin connector C-6 (see illustration below). For full-vat units or the right half of a
dual-vat unit (as viewed from the rear of the
fryer) the red lead goes into position
3 and the white
lead into position 4 of the connector.
For the left half of a dual-vat unit (as viewed from the rear of the fryer), the red lead goes into position
9 and the white lead
into position 10. NOTE: Right and left refer to the fryer as
viewed
from the rear.
10. Secure any loose wires with wire ties making sure that the lead wires will not interfere with the
movement of the springs.
Rotate
the elements up and down making sure that movement is not
restricted and
that
the wires are not
pinched.
11.
Reinstall the tilt housing and back panels, reposition the fryer under the exhaust hood, and reconnect
it to the electrical
power supply to return
the fryer to
service.
Replacing a Heating
Element
1.
Perform steps 1-3
of section
1.5, Replacing a Temperature
Probe.
2.
On dual-vat fryers, and on full-vat fryers where the temperature probe is attached to the element being replaced, disconnect the wire harness containing the probe wiring.
Using a pin pusher,
disconnect the probe wires from
the 12-pin connector C-6.
3.
In the rear of the fryer directly
behind the frypot disconnect the 6-pin connector for the left element (as viewed from the front of the fryer) or the 9-pin connector for the right element. Press in on the tabs on each
side of the connector while pulling
outward on the free end to extend the
connector and
release the element leads
(see photo below). Pull the leads
out of the connector and
out of the wire sleeving.
4.
Raise the element to the full up position and support the
elements.
5. Remove the hex head screws and nuts that secure the element to the tube assembly and pull the element out of the frypot.
NOTE: Full-vat elements consist of two dual-vat elements clamped together. For full-vat
units, remove the element clamps
before removing
the nuts and screws
that secure the element to the tube assembly.
6. If applicable, recover the probe bracket and probe from the element being replaced and install
them on the replacement element. Install the replacement element in the fry pot, securing it with
the nuts and screws removed in Step 5 to the tube assembly. Ensure the gasket is between the tube
and element assembly.
7.
Route the element leads through the element tube assembly and into the wire sleeving to prevent
chafing.
Ensure that the wire sleeving is routed back through the Heyco bushing keeping it clear
from the lift springs.
Also
ensure that the wire sleeving extends into the tube assembly to prevent the edge of the tube assembly from chafing the wires.
Press the pins into the connector in
accordance
with the diagram on the following page, and then close the
connector to lock the
leads in place.
NOTE: It is critical that the wires be routed through the sleeving to prevent
chafing.
8. Reconnect
the element
connector ensuring that
the latches lock.
9. Insert the temperature probe leads into the 12-pin wiring harness connector C-6 (see illustration
below). For full-vat units or the
right half of a
dual-vat unit, the
red
lead goes into position 3 and the white into position 4. For the left half of a
dual-vat unit, the
red
lead goes into position
9 and the white into position 10. NOTE: Right
and
left refer to the
fryer as viewed from
the rear.
10. Reconnect
the 12-pin connector C-6
of the wiring harness
disconnected in Step
2.
11. Lower the element down
onto the basket
rack.
12. Reinstall the tilt housing and back panels, reposition the fryer under the exhaust hood, and
reconnect it to the electrical power supply.
Replacing
Contactor Box Components
1.
If replacing a contactor box component above the built-in filter system, remove the filter pan and
lid from the unit. Drain the frypots into a
Shortening Disposal Unit or other appropriate metal container. If
replacing a contactor box
component in a
non-filter unit or a frypot that’s not
over the filter pan, drain the frypot
above the box into a Shortening Disposal Unit or other
appropriate metal
container.
2. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply.
3. Remove the two screws securing the cover of the contactor box. The contactor boxes above the filter pan are accessed by sliding
under the fryer.
They are located to the left and right above the guide
rails (see photo below). The contactor boxes of non-filter units or frypots not over the
filter pan are accessed
by opening
the fryer door directly under the affected frypot.
4.
The contactors and relays are held on by threaded pin studs so that only removal of the nut is
required to replace the component.
5.
After performing necessary service, reverse steps 1-4 to return the
fryer to operation.
Replacing a Fry pot
1.
Drain the fry pot into the filter pan
or, if replacing
a
fry pot over
the
filter
system, into
a Shortening Disposal Unit or
other appropriate metal container. If replacing a fry pot over the
filter system, remove the filter pan
and lid from the unit.
3.
Slide the metal bezel up to release the bottom
tabs, then slide the bezel down to disengage the upper tabs.
4. Remove the two screws from the upper corners of the control panels and allow them to swing down (see illustration and photo on page 1-1).
5. Unplug the wiring harnesses and ground wires from the backs of the controllers.
Remove the controllers
by
lifting them
from the hinge slots in the control
panel
frame.
6.
Remove the tilt housing and back
panels from the fryer. The tilt housing must be removed
first in order to
remove the upper back
panel.
7. To remove the tilt housing remove the hex head screws from the rear edge of the housing.
The
housing can be lifted straight
up and off the fryer.
8.
Remove the control
panel by removing the screw in
the center and the
nuts on both sides.
9.
Loosen the component
boxes by removing the screws,
which secure them
in the cabinet.
10. Dismount the top cap by removing
the nuts at
each
end that secure it
to the cabinetry.
11. Remove the hex head
screw that
secures the
front of the frypot to the cabinet
cross brace.
12. Remove the top-connecting strip
that covers the
joint with the adjacent
frypot.
13.
Unscrew the Teflon vent/vacuum-breaker tube fitting, unscrew the nut located on the front of each
section
of drain tube, and
remove the tube
assembly from the fryer.
14.
Remove the covers from the drain safety switch and disconnect the switch wiring at the switch.
15.
At the rear of the fryer, unplug the 12-pin connector C-6 and, using a pin pusher, disconnect the
high-limit
thermostat leads.
16. Disconnect the
oil return flexline at the
frypot end.
17. Raise the elements to the “up” position and disconnect
the element springs.
18. Remove the machine screws and nuts that secure the element tube assembly to the frypot.
Carefully lift the element assembly from the frypot and secure it to the cross brace on the rear of
the fryer with
wire ties or tape.
19. Carefully lift
the frypot from
the fryer and
place it upside down on a stable work
surface.
20. Recover the drain valve(s), oil return flexline connection fitting(s), and high-limit thermostat(s) from the frypot. Clean threads and apply Loctite PST 567 or equivalent sealant to the threads of
the recovered parts
and
install them in the replacement
frypot.
21. Carefully lower the replacement frypot into the fryer. Reinstall the hex head screw removed in
step 7 to attach the frypot to
the fryer.
22. Position
the element tube assembly in the frypot and reinstall the machine screws and nuts
removed in step 14.
23. Reconnect the oil return flexlines to the frypot, and replace aluminum
tape, if necessary, to
secure heater strips to the flexlines.
24. Insert the high-limit thermostat leads disconnected in step 13 (see illustration on page 1-3 for pin positions).
25. Reconnect the drain safety switch wiring to the switch(es) in accordance with the diagram below then
reinstall the switch covers.
26. Reinstall
the drain tube assembly.
27. Reinstall the top connecting strips, top cap, control panel, component box, tilt housing and back
panels.
28. Reinstall controllers in the control panel frame and reconnect the wiring harnesses and ground wires.
29. Reposition the fryer under the exhaust hood and reconnect
it to the electrical power supply.
Built-in
Filtration System Service Procedures
Filtration System Problem Resolution
One of the most
common causes of filtration problems
is placing the filter paper on the bottom of the filter pan rather than
over the filter screen.
Whenever the complaint is “the pump is running, but no oil is being filtered,” check the installation
of the filter paper, and ensure that the correct size is being used.
While you are checking the filter paper, verify that the O-rings on the pick-up tube of the filter pan are in good condition. Missing or worn
O-rings allow the
pump to take in
air
and decrease its efficiency.
If the pump motor overheats, the thermal overload will trip and the motor will not start until it is reset. If the pump motor does not start, press the red reset switch (button) located on the rear of the motor at the front of the fryer
If the pump starts after resetting the thermal overload switch, then something
is causing the motor to
overheat. A major cause of overheating is when several frypots are filtered sequentially, overheating
the pump and motor. Allow
the pump motor to cool at least 30 minutes before resuming
operation. Pump overheating can
be caused
by:
• Solidified shortening in
the pan or filter lines, or
• Attempting to filter unheated oil (cold oil is more viscous,
overloading the pump motor and causing it to overheat).
If the motor runs but the pump
does not return oil, there is a blockage
in the
pump. Incorrectly
sized or installed paper/pads will allow
food particles and
sediment to pass through
the filter pan and into
the pump. When sediment enters the
pump, the gears
bind, causing the motor to overload, again
tripping the thermal overload.
Shortening that
has solidified in the pump will also
cause it to seize,
with the same result.
A pump seized by debris or hard shortening can usually be freed by manually moving the gears with a
screwdriver or other
instrument.
Disconnect power to the filter system,
remove the
input plumbing from the pump, and use a screwdriver to
manually turn the
gears.
●
Turning
the pump gears in reverse will
release a hard particle.
● Turning the pump gears forward will push softer objects and solid shortening through the
pump and allow free movement of
the gears.
Incorrectly sized or installed paper/pads will also allow food particles and sediment to pass through and clog the suction tube on the bottom of
the filter pan. Particles large enough to block the suction tube may indicate that the crumb tray is not being used.
Pan blockage can also occur if shortening
is left in the pan and allowed to solidify.
Blockage removal can be accomplished by forcing the item
out with an auger or drain snake. Compressed air
or other pressurized gases should not be used to force out
the blockage.
1.9.2 Replacing the Filter Motor, Filter Pump, and
Related
Components
1. Remove the filter pan and lid from the unit. Drain the frypots
into a Shortening Disposal Unit
or other appropriate metal container.
2. Disconnect the fryer from the electrical power supply and reposition it to gain access to both the front
and rear.
3. Disconnect the two flexlines running to the oil-return manifold at the rear of the fryer as well as the pump suction
flexline at the
end of the filter pan connection (see photo below)
4.
Loosen the nut and
bolt that secures the
bridge to the oil-return manifold.
5.
Remove the cover plate from the
front of the motor and disconnect
the motor wires.
6. Unplug the pump motor assembly 6-pin connector C-2 and, using a pin pusher, disconnect the
vent vacuum-breaker solenoid (pins
2 and 5) that is attached
to the oil return manifold.
7. Remove the two nuts and bolts that secure the front of the bridge to the cross brace and carefully slide the bridge rearward off
the cross brace
until its front end can be lowered to the
floor. Undo the single nut holding it in place in back. Be careful not to let the rear of the bridge
slip off the manifold
at this point.
8. Get a good grip on the bridge, carefully
pull it forward off the oil-return manifold, and lower the
entire assembly to the floor.
Once on the floor,
pull the assembly out the front
of the fryer.
9. When required service has been completed, reverse steps 6-12 to reinstall the bridge. NOTE: The black motor wires go on the top terminal, the
white on the bottom. The pump solenoid valve
wires go in positions
1 and 4 of the 6-pin connector C-2; the vent vacuum-breaker solenoid valve wires
go in positions 2 and 5; the red/black
heater tape wires go
into position 3 and the violet/white wires go into position 6 (see illustration
on the following page
10. Reconnect the unit to the electrical power supply, and verify that the pump is functioning correctly (i.e., when a filter handle
is placed in the ON position, the motor
should start and there
should be strong suction at the
intake fitting and outflow
at the rear flush
port.)
11.
When
proper operation has
been verified,
reinstall the
back panels and
the filter pan
and lid.
12. Reposition
the fryer under the exhaust hood and reconnect it to the electrical power supply to
return the fryer to
service.
Replacing the Filter Transformer or Filter Relay
Disconnect the
fryer from the
electrical power supply. Remove the left controller from the
fryer to expose the interior of the left component box. The filter transformer and relay
are located as shown
in the illustration below. NOTE: The right component box is identical to the left except that the filter transformer and relay are not present. The components are held on by threaded pin studs so
that only removal of the nut is required to replace the component.
Basket Lift
Service Procedures
RE Series electric fryers may be equipped with automatic basket lifts.
Basket lifts always come in pairs, although each operates independently.
A
modular
basket lift
(illustrated on the following page) is a self-contained
sub-assembly
consisting of a pair
of toothed rods which support removable
basket lift arms, a
pair of reversible- drive
gear motors, and four microswitches.
The gear
motors engage
the teeth of the rods, moving them up or
down depending upon the
motors’ direction of rotation.
The microswitches at the upper and lower limits of movement stop the motors when the
basket is in the full up or
full down position.
Timing
circuitry in the
controller initiates and
stops
basket
lift operation
depending
upon
the variables programmed by the
operator. When the product button is pressed, the timing circuitry
activates a coil in the
basket lift relay to supply power to the
lower microswitch. The
microswitches stop the motor
at the lift’s upper and
lower travel
limits and reverse the direction of
current flow thus reversing the motor
direction.
When the
product button is pushed on the computer/controller, current flows through a coil in the basket lift relay, causing the lower circuit to be activated. The basket lift lowers, closing the normally open upper-micro-switch.
When the downward-moving rod opens the lower normally closed microswitch, the power to the motor ceases to flow.
When
the computer/controller times out, the
current to the relay coil is cut, allowing the upper circuit to be activated. The basket lift then
raises and re-closes the lower microswitch. When the basket lift rod clears the upper microswitch,
the microswitch reopens, power to the circuit is cut, and the motor stops.
Pushing the product button
restarts the cycle.
Problems with the basket lift
can be grouped into three categories:
● Binding/jamming problems
● Motor and gear problems
● Electronic problems
MOTOR
AND GEAR PROBLEMS
With the modular basket lift, the most likely
problem to be encountered in this category is erratic
motion of the lift due to a worn drive gear.
Failure to keep the lift rod and bushings
properly lubricated will cause unnecessary wear
of the gear. The problem is corrected by replacing the worn
gear.
If the lift cycles correctly but fails to remain in the up position (i.e., goes up, but then slowly settles back down into the frypot), the
problem is a failed motor brake. A
failed motor brake cannot be repaired and
requires replacement
of the motor itself.
If power is reaching the motor but the motor fails to run, the motor is burned out and must be
replaced.
ELECTRONIC
PROBLEMS
Within this category are problems associated with the relays, microswitches, capacitors, resistors,
interface board, wiring, and controls.
The most common problem in this category is a lift that
continuously travels up and down. This
is usually caused by a microswitch that is out of adjustment.
Troubleshooting the electronics of
a modular basket lift is simply a
process of verifying current flow
through the individual components up to and including the motor. Using
a multimeter set to the 250
VAC range, check the connections on both sides of the component for the presence of the applied line
voltage. The schematic below and
the
wiring diagram on page 1-16 can
identify
the
components and wiring connection points.
Interface Board Diagnostic Chart
The following
diagram and charts provide ten quick system checks that can be performed using only
a multimeter.
|
Meter Setting |
Test |
Pin |
Pin |
Results |
|
12 VAC Power |
50 VAC Scale |
3 of J2 |
1 of J2 |
12-16 VAC |
|
24 VAC Power |
50 VAC Scale |
2 of J2 |
Chassis |
24-30 VAC |
|
*Probe Resistance (RH) |
R X 1000
OHMS |
11 of J2 |
10 of J2 |
See Chart |
|
*Probe Resistance (LH) |
R X 1000
OHMS |
1 of J1 |
2 of J1 |
See Chart |
|
High-Limit Continuity (RH) |
R X 1 OHMS |
9 of J2 |
6 of J2 |
0 - OHMS |
|
High-Limit Continuity (LH) |
R X 1 OHMS |
6 of J1 |
9 of J1 |
0 - OHMS |
|
Latch Contactor Coil (RH) |
R X 1 OHMS |
8 of J2 |
Chassis |
3-10 OHMS |
|
Latch Contactor Coil (LH) |
R X 1 OHMS |
5 of J1 |
Chassis |
3-10 OHMS |
|
Heat Contactor Coil (RH) |
R X 1 OHMS |
7 of J2 |
Chassis |
11-15 OHMS |
|
Heat Contactor Coil (LH) |
R X 1 OHMS |
4 of J1 |
Chassis |
11-15 OHMS |
Disconnect 15-Pin harness from the computer/controller before testing the probe circuit.
 TROUBLESHOOTING){kind=link}
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